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If you think that there's no difference
between a bartender and a bar chef, propably you've never
seen the latter at work: moving among coloured stalks full
of ingredients like fresh fruits, flowers or roots, and bottles
of homemade juices and infusions, he looks like a modern apprentice
sorcerer working in a chemistry lab.
A bar chef, if compared to a standard bartender, spend half
of his time trying to find the perfect ingredient, or track
some unknown liqueur: for them, even the size and shape of
an ice cube matters, or the melting temperature of the ingredients
of their concoctions. Bar chefs have enlivened cocktails with
about every fresh herb: rosemary, lemon, thyme have moved
from the kitchen to the bar - as well as a few flowers and
the occasional root. This has marked a major change in cocktail
culture and is becoming a fashionable trend in bars around
New York.
Spice up your cocktails!
Bar chefs - or "beverage managers", as they are often called
- keep on experimenting new ingredients, or new combination
of well known cocktail components: most of this young cocktail
stars take their inspirations from chefs and pastry chef,
.and that's why some of their recipes can look bizarre or
weird.
Albert Trummer, one of the most famous N.Y. bar chefs,
from Town restaurant, serves to his customers a Truffle
Martini, made with real truffle slices; Nick Mautone,
from Gramercy Tavern, has invented the famous Basil
Martini, garnished with a dried tomato: some people say
it tastes like pizza; tomato is one of the ingredients often
used by bar chefs - think of Petrossian's Tomato-and-pepper-vodka
punch.
Sometimes these revolutionary mixologists can go even further,
and use ingredients like calendula or verbena, or even horseradish-roots,
as Michael Waterhouse of Dylan Prime did to
create his famous Bloodless
Mary. Even if this can be considered a very bizarre idea,
using botanicals to flavor alcohol isn't a new idea. The earliest
distilled spirits, back in the 12th century, were usually
flavored with herbs, since many herbs and roots have healing
properties: after all many of today's spirits, including gin
and vermouth, are made from herbs.
Adding a new twist to classical cocktails
Beside this "avant-garde" mixologists, many bar chefs are
more "conservative" and believe that before starting inventing
new mixture a bar chef must master all the Classics: instead
of looking for weird ingredients, they prefere using their
imagination to turn classical drinks into modern cocktails.
Their creativity brings new colours to standard recipes, giving
even old fashioned cocktails a new eye appeal; that's the
case of the "Cocktail King" Dale deGroff, and his disciples,
for exemple Audrey Saunders, from Carlyle hotel,
who created her Old Cuban changing the standard Mojito
recipe (replacing the white rum with stronger añejo rum and
soda with champagne). but sometimes they like experimenting
new flavours too: Dale deGroff himself invented drinks
like the Oyster
cocktail.
Today most customers are actually looking for new flavours
and colours: and enjoys this revolutionary and bizarre cocktails.
That's why bar chefs are becoming real stars.
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