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Every month a new article, to feed your curiosity and improve your knowledge of the world of drinking.
  The secrets of Champagne - Part I
by Robert du Piérni
page 1 | 2 | 3

 
Summary
- Short history
- The medieval period
- Champagne vs. Burgundy
- Frčre Jean Oudart and Dom Pierre Pérignon
- Bubbles…
- The Nineteenth Century
- Vintage
- The Wars
- The appellation d'Origine controllée (AOC)

There are dozens of different brands of Champagne, but only a few can aspire to perfection and therefore to eternity. These are the great Champagnes,Let's talk about the origin of these wines of inimitable taste.

Short history

Champagne is a region of timeless natural beauty. Viticulture is documented in the Marne as early as 79 A.D., but fossil evidence exists showing that wild vines flourished naturally in the area round Epernay over a million years ago.

As well as developing the vineyards and the art of winemaking, the Romans also quarried the chalky hillsides up to three hundred feet deep, in search of chalk blocks for building. These chalk pits are called crayeres and have since become cellars for millions of bottles of Champagne. In 92 A.D. the Emperor Domitian decreed that most of the vineyards of France should be uprooted to eliminate competition with the wines of the Italian peninsula. The vines of Champagne were no exception. For two centuries the vineyards were cultivated secretly, until the Emperor Probus rescinded the decree and ordered the vineyards to be replanted. From the very outset, the wines of Champagne were prized above all the vineyards of Europe.

The medieval period

As Christianity and the influence of the church spread, considerable vineyards were bequeathed to the monastic orders. In the eleventh century, when Crusaders who had entrusted their property to the church did not return, these monastic holdings were increased significantly. Many of the most coveted vineyards of Champagne, whose wines were the only ones considered worthy of offering to God or King, were virtually nationalised in clerical hands. For centuries they were the wines used for the sacrament, for coronations, for the royal table and for the consecration of treaties. Until medieval times, it was the monks who tended the vines: the wine was blessed and drunk during mass. The wines of Champagne were given a unique destiny when the paths of geography and history crossed. It was Saint Rémi, bishop of Reims, whilst living in a villa surrounded by vineyards near to the present town of Epérnay, who baptised Clovis when he converted. The first King of France was anointed with wine from the Champagne region one Christmas evening in 496. From the 12th century onwards, Champagne's reputation began to cross borders and their prestige grew continuously. As they grew in notoriety and were appreciated by the greats of this world, Champagne wines were the chosen wines for celebrations and major events.

Champagne vs. Burgundy

Until the latter half of the seventeenth century, the still wines of Champagne were rivalled only by those of Burgundy, the other proponent of the Pinot Noir grape. The Champenois had begun to encroach on the export markets of the Low Countries, an area in which Burgundy had been formerly unchallenged. Perceiving opportunities to widen both their domestic and export markets, they spared no expense improving the quality of their wines. Throughout the 1600's, a paper-and-ink war, in Latin prose and verse, ensued between Champagne and Burgundy. The battles, whose champions were doctors and poets, centred on the respective taste and natural wholesomeness of the wines. Rather than imitating the wines of Burgundy, the Champenois sought to create a new style of wines. Voltaire remarked that these new wines, made with the most painstaking care, were not only unusual but also delicious. This novelty value helped them enjoy a great advantage not only in the wealthy, fashionable circles of Paris but in the export market as well. Reference is made from the middle of the century onwards to Champagne wines of various colours; 'oeil de perdrix' (partridge eye); 'couleur de miel' (honey-coloured); 'cerise' (cherry pink); 'fauve' (tawny); or 'gris' (grey). The Champenois had discovered how to vinify light-coloured wines from the Pinot Noir grape. In the beginning, the wines of Champagne were still, light and crisp. But it was only from the end of the 17th century that they became sparkling wines. This made them the uncontested Kings of the world's celebrations.



continue...



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