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Sherry, the Heart of Spanish Soul - Part I
by Robert du Piérni
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Summary
- Andalucia - the home of Sherry Wines
- The History of Sherry Wine
- Sherry Wines in the Modern Age
- The Vineyards
- The Region
- The Cultivation
- The Climate
- Grape Varieties
Andalucia - the home of Sherry Wines
Andalucia's more important city is Jerez that lies nine miles inland from the sea between Cadiz and Sevilla and is the principal of three sherry towns. The others are on the coast: Sanlucar de Barrameda at the mouth of the river Guadalquivir, and Puerto de Santa Maria. Between them they produce virtually all the genuine sherry that is shipped to the rest of the world. There is not much difference between the wines of Jerez and Puerto de Santa Maria, except that the latter are noted for their Fino and Amontillado types of sherry; Sanlucar, however, produces quite different wines: all the manzanilla is made there, with its distinctive fresh flavour that cannot be reproduced anywhere else. Despite such a short distance between them the wine produced will be affected by any slight change in the atmosphere or climate. History records the earliest fermented fruit as date wine, but mead probably came first, then beer. Grape wine was prepared as early as the prehistoríc Djemdet-Nast period in Mesopotamia and was brought to Egypt before 3000 BC. The Greeks however practised viticulture as an art.
The History of Sherry Wine
The first news of wine from Jerez comes to us from a Greek geographer of the 1st Century B.C. who wrote that vines were brought to the Jerez region by the Phoenicians in 1100 B.C. The same report was picked up by Rufo Festo Avieno, a Roman historian of the 4th Century A.D., in his book Ora Maritima, the first "tourist" guide that we know of. The Phoenicians cut down the forests, the famous cedars of Lebanon, and started cultivating olive trees and grapevines in their settlements in order to feed themselves. Thus the Phoenicians brought to us olive trees and grapevines and sold the wine throughout the Mediterranean region, especially in Rome.
During the Arab domination of Spain, the consumption of Sherry was kept up without problems, despite the Koranic prohibition. Nevertheless, in 966 Jerezian vineyards were uprooted, for religious reasons. The conquest of the city of Jerez by King Alphonse X ("The Wise") in 1264 meant a 180-degree turn-about for sherry wines, because the Christians, to distinguish themselves from the Arabs, ate pork and drank wine. Before battles, they even gave it to their horses to drink so their steeds would boldly charge the enemy. King Alphonse X had his own vineyards in Jerez and he looked after them personally. Back then, and even in the 12th Century, the Jerezians shipped their wines to England: the English started referring to these wines by using a slight variation on the Arab name of the city: "Sherish" and thus gave them their actual name "Sherry". The arrival of Sherry in England comes when Henry I proposed an arrangement with the inhabitants of Bordeaux: their wine for English wool, in order to develop both sectors. The French refusal opened the doors to the Jerezians, who did accept the offer.
The Sherry wines were sought after by English, French and Flemish merchants, which gave rise to more than one dispute with the wine producers in Jerez. In order to establish order, the city government, on August 12, 1483, issued the Regulations of the Raisin and Grape-Harvesting Guild from Jerez, the first guidelines of Denomination of Origin to govern the details of the harvest, the kinds of barrels, the aging system and commercial uses in this region.
Sherry Wine in the Modern Age
Sherry wine was not sent only to Europe. After the discovery of America, Genovese merchants set up shop in the Jerez region to specialize in trade with the West Indies.
The sale of Sherry in the Indies was hampered by the pirates who seized the fleet's cargoes to sell them in London. The biggest Sherry wine booty was taken by Sir Martin Frobisher, of Sir Francis Drake's fleet, who in 1587 attacked Cádiz, plundered Jerez, and went off with 3,000 kegs of our wines.
Sherry later became more and more fashionable in the English court. Queen Elizabeth I recommended it to the Earl of Essex as the ideal wine, but Sherry had already made its appearance in England as an important legacy of the testaments (Sommerset 1540) and even became an accounting unit, in the same way as tulips were in Holland around that time. An idea of the popularity of Sherry in those days can be formed by looking at the works of William Shakespeare, who was said to drink many bottles of Sherry each day in the Bear's Head Tavern.
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