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Every month a new article, to feed your curiosity and improve your knowledge of the world of drinking.
  Sherry, the Heart of Spanish Soul - Part II
by Robert du Piérni
page 1 | 2 | 3

 
Summary
- The Cultivation
- The Harvest
- Obtaining the Must
- The Fermentation
- The Classification of Sherry Wines
- The Aging of Sherry
- The Types of Sherry
- Sherry in the Gastronomy

The Cultivation


- Planting:
Once the work of manuring and the August weeding (known as the "agostado") have been done, young vines are planted, at a depth 2 feet, preferably on ridges or hills where the "albariza" loam is close to the surface, so the roots can easily penetrate to its damp zone.
- Grafting:
The grafting is done in the month of August. The operation consists of carefully cutting a slit, in which a single bud, of the Palomino variety, is inserted and the scion is bound with raffia.
- Pruning:
Carried out in December and January. In Jerez the classic pruning system called "stick and thumb" (vara y pulgar) is used, which consists in cutting the two branches which make up each vine to leave in alternate years a single "stick" with eight buds -from which the bunches of grapes develop- and a "thumb" with just one bud. The bud on the "thumb" sprouts into the following year's "stick", while this year's stick will then be cut back to just a "thumb". The "stick" and its bunches are held up by two wires, 20 inches and 40 inches (50 cm and 1 m) above the ground, which make up the espalier.

The Harvest

In the month of September the green stone connecting each bunch to the vine darkens and the grapes themselves "surrender", that is to say, they turn soft and sweet. There is no exact date for beginning the harvesting because it depends on the maturity of the grapes, which is calculated by the Jerez Viticultural and Eonological Station, the Rancho de la Merced Experimental Station and the Sherry Regulatory Board. Together, these institutions reach a decision based on daily analysis of grapes picked in different location within the region. The cutting of the bunches us usually carried out with pocket knives (sometimes with scissors) and the grapes are collected in plastic boxes with a capacity no greater than 40 pounds (18 kgs.) to ensure that the fruit is not damaged in its trip from the fields to the winepress, or "Lagar". Some wine cellars collect the grapes in baskets with a capacity of one "arroba" (25 pounds, 11,5 kgs.). It takes 62 "arrobas" to make one "carretyada" (cartload) of 1,550 pounds (714 Kgs) which is the amount of grapes necessary for the ll0 gallons (500 l) of must that go into one standard butt or "bota" of Sherry.
In order to boost the sugar content of the Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel varieties, the grapes are set in the sun during the day on round mats of esparto grass, which are covered up at night against the damp. This operation, called "soleo", or sunning, lasts 48 hours. The harvest, which usually begins at the end of the first week of September, takes around 20 days, unless there are delays due to rain, which always brings the operation to a halt because the grapes must arrive at the press completely dry and covered with a fine dust, or "pruina", which plays a key role in the fermentation process.

In the month of September the green stone connecting each bunch to the vine darkens and the grapes themselves "surrender", that is to say, they turn soft and sweet. There is no exact date for beginning the harvesting because it depends on the maturity of the grapes, which is calculated by the Jerez Viticultural and Eonological Station, the Rancho de la Merced Experimental Station and the Sherry Regulatory Board. Together, these institutions reach a decision based on daily analysis of grapes picked in different location within the region. The cutting of the bunches us usually carried out with pocket knives (sometimes with scissors) and the grapes are collected in plastic boxes with a capacity no greater than 40 pounds (18 kgs.) to ensure that the fruit is not damaged in its trip from the fields to the winepress, or "Lagar". Some wine cellars collect the grapes in baskets with a capacity of one "arroba" (25 pounds, 11,5 kgs.). It takes 62 "arrobas" to make one "carretyada" (cartload) of 1,550 pounds (714 Kgs) which is the amount of grapes necessary for the ll0 gallons (500 l) of must that go into one standard butt or "bota" of Sherry.
In order to boost the sugar content of the Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel varieties, the grapes are set in the sun during the day on round mats of esparto grass, which are covered up at night against the damp. This operation, called "soleo", or sunning, lasts 48 hours. The harvest, which usually begins at the end of the first week of September, takes around 20 days, unless there are delays due to rain, which always brings the operation to a halt because the grapes must arrive at the press completely dry and covered with a fine dust, or "pruina", which plays a key role in the fermentation process.

Obtaining the Must


Once the harvest is finalised the grapes are taken to the wine presses or lagares, which in the Jerez region are sited in the vineyards or in the outskirts of the towns, the grapes are put onto conveyor belts to permit the discarding of stems, leaves, and unsuitable bunches, which, put into the presses, would create too much tannin. Then they are put through machines that squeeze them, but only gently, to help open up the individual grapes, and from there they go directly to the presses. In Jerez, horizontal presses are normally used. These presses have a stainless steel horizontal cylinder with a pneumatic bag along the axis. By use of air pressure to gently inflate and deflate this bag the "bud must" ("mosto de yema") is squeezed out. About 151/2 gallons (70 l.) of must are obtained from each 220 pounds (100 kg.) of grapes in this process. Only this "bud must", from the first pressing, provides the base for blending Sherry wines.
The wine cellars usually carry out two further pressings, the must from the second pressing being used for wines which will not qualify to be called "Sherry" or for distilled alcohol, while from the third pressing tartaric acid and other products are obtained. As an alternative to the traditional winepresses, the so-called "harvesting centers" have been established throughout the region. In these centers, in addition to the operations described above, the fermentation, classification and early stages of the aging process are carried out.


continue...




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