Summary

- A whole new world of grappas
- The reasons for success
- The technical revolution
- The appeal of ageing
- Key word: Characteristic
- New trends and methods of consumption
- Marketing, publicity, culture and social responsibility
- Our choice
- The numbers of grappa
- The developing trends
- Traditionalists to the bitter end
- Everyone in Conegliano for... "Bere col naso"



A whole new world of grappas
Grappa is now a versatile drink that is suitable for all types of locales. There are opportunities for meeting and socialising everywhere, as well for young consumers

Grappa is trendy. New ways of consuming it are being invented and the occasions to drink it are multiplying. It is conquering the restaurant scene and its target market is growing, showing up in cocktail bars and discos and where it is used with versatility in mixed drinks. Grappa is part of a culture and speaks of the evolution of a society and customs, now coming in many varieties. “Grappa does not exist. Grappas exist – affirms Jacopo Poli, owner of the Distilleria Poli – Each one is different because there are different regions of origin, vineyards, characteristics of the pomace, types of stills, distillation styles, harvests, ageing, etc… This is a group of factors that contributes to creating an infinite number of grappas, each one unique and inimitable”. The market is lively and in the first six months of 2003 it registered a consumer growth of 3.37%.

 

The reasons for success
What is the secret of the commercial success of grappa seen in the last ten years? Great quality that has been achieved thanks to research and innovation.
According to a survey conducted by Mondo Grappa, the trade show dedicated to Italian grappa, the producers with the most success in the past ten years invested about 4-6% of their turnover in innovation. Meanwhile, the latest survey conducted by Astra Demoskopea shows that the development of the grappa market has been due to the conquest of the mid-high level of consumers, consumption that has tripled in Central-Southern Italy, and the great interest that women have been showing in this distillate.



The technical revolution
Today there are many producers who, busy with innovation, are bringing new life to the high-end market.
“While up until the 1980’s grappa was a profession handed down from father to son, today it has become as rigorous a science as that of wine” says Roberto Castagner, owner of the Acquavite Visnà Distillery. Innovation also means using production methods and technology capable of modernising a tradition that is five centuries old. The first to break the mould was Nonino who, in 1973, created the first single variety grappa cru by separately distilling the pomace of Picolit grapes.
Today the distillery in Percoto (UD) is still the only one in the world to have 42 discontinuous steam stills in use 24 hours a day, allowing for the distillation of the pomace contemporaneously with the harvest. “We fervently promote artisan production – explains Antonella Nonino, communications director – For us, grappa that is not produced in a still cannot be called grappa. Our dream for 2004 is to put more stills in operation, for a total of five artisan distilleries with 12 stills each. This would not be to increase production but to distil in less time, even finishing by the month of October”.
Roberto Castagner rethought production in scientific terms, creating new technology. “With the Grappa System I revolutionised the concept of conservation and fermentation of the pomace, making it possible to control fermentation like is done for wines – says Castagner – In addition, I designed a grappa with a very low level of alcohol, 37.5-38°. Alcohol does not affect the quality of grappa, the quality of the distillation does. In 1999, at the research centre, Luciano Brotto and I started experimenting with grappa smoked with peat. This lead to the creation of Terre Blu, Torba Rossa and Torba Nera”.
The Distilleria Sibona (producing 160,000 bottles annually, 40% of which are distributed abroad), in the heart of the Roero area, recently opened a new plant that allows for not only a growth in volume but also faster distillation that is done immediately when the pomace arrives at the distillery.



The appeal of ageing
“Of the four varieties of the grappa market, traditional, single variety, personalised and aged, the latter two are the ones that are showing the most interesting signs of growth, similar to rum, whisky and cognac – explains Italo Maschio, sole director of the Distillerie Bonaventura Maschio – The trend is to be increasingly personalised in order to offer high quality and unique products. Our 903 barrique for example is showing extraordinary growth and is being requested by operators”.
Due to the market’s interest in refined and aged grappas, Distillerie Bertagnolli (with a production of 500,000 bottles, 80% of which are single variety) has also followed this trend with three new products, Koralis, Pluris and Decem. Shortly, it will also have a new cellar. Meanwhile, Bepi Tosolini is launching a new line of acquavites and grappa aged in barriques called I legni (“The Woods”), in line with the philosophy of the company. “Quality and purity – says Lisa Tosolini, director of marketing – without any concern as to quantity. We chose not to enter into supermarket distribution. We are creating popularity for our brand through select restaurants that are capable of spreading culture”.
A passion for ageing has always distinguished the Distillerie Francoli (producing a half million bottles annually) that has reserves aged 3-5 years and reserves in barriques, and which, with its new Luigi Francoli line, has definitively turned the page on the image that it once had. The pride of the company in Ghemme (No) is the Oro di Barolo 1998 grappa, an aged grappa that won the gold medal in the spirits category at the tenth World Competition in Brussels.
Sibona’s line of grappa with a high grade of alcohol is called Tuttogrado (made from Barbera, Barbaresco and Barolo) and is aged in barrels and barriques for about 4 years. “It has a unique feature: the wood, in addition to giving a darker colour to the grappa, makes it smoother” specifies Luigi Barbero, director of sales for the company.
With its Grappa Barricata and its Le Torbiere grappa, the Distillerie Franciacorta in Gussago (Bs) (the 2002 production totalled 2.8 million bottles of grappa) is also focusing on aged and high-end products that it is adding to its portfolio, which has been diversified for diverse consumers. “Grappa remains the core business of the company – says Anna Gozio, director of marketing and communication – So much so that last year we acquired two historic brands: Grappa Piave, for which we are preparing a publicity campaign to relaunch it, and René Briand brandy”. Recently, the company took part in an interesting project: the creation of a centre for researching the history, technology and consumption of acquavites and liqueurs.
Grappa Solera, a grappa that has been a bit out of the picture, registered a 40% growth in southern Italy. Distilleria Segnana, owned by the Fratelli Lunelli, ages it using the Solera method (which is normally used for sherry).



Key word: Characteristic
The advantage of grappa, with respect to other distillates, lies in its infinite varieties, such that the consumer can taste a wide range of products” says Andrea Roner, President of the Distillerie Roner based in Termeno (Bz), which is the leading company in the Alto Adige region, which with its Muller Thurgau grappa won the gold medal the most times at the important European event, the Brussels Award. Roner’s latest creation is La Morbida, geared toward a target market of women and refined connoisseurs.


New trends and methods of consumption
“Speaking of occasions and methods of consumption, our motto is “free the spirit”, leave room for your senses, the flavour and creativity” suggests Jacopo Poli.
The Distilleria Bottega has been promoting grappa as a summer drink. “Flavoured grappas are also very pleasant on ice – explains Giovanni Savio, marketing director – In addition, both grappa and acquavite go well in mixed drinks”. Last year the distillery in Castello di Roganzuolo also created the concept of “grappa on the rocks” with Alexander Platinum. This is the first full proof grappa at 60°, and is to be diluted with water or ice using a special glass that indicates the percentage of alcohol on a graduated scale (60°, 40° and 20°).
“A fresh and aromatic grappa goes well in mixed drinks, combined with mint, lime or lemon – confirms Livia Bertagnolli, owner of the Distilleria Bertagnolli – However, be careful to pour the correct amount. Too much becomes nauseating”. “We can no longer say that there is a particular moment for serving grappa – comments Alessandro Francoli, President of the Istituto Nazionale Grappa and the Distilleria Francoli – If unflavoured and served very cold it can even function as an aperitif, possibly garnished with a stuffed olive”.
For Antonia Ciarfella, brand manager of Grappa Frattina, the brand leader in the single variety grappa market, with a mid-to-high positioning in terms of image as well as price. “Today, grappa is no longer only for after dinner. It can be enjoyed with dessert to emphasise the flavours or during a relaxing moment with friends”.
The combinations with cigars, chocolate and dry pastries have become classics. F.lli Rinaldi Importatori in Bologna has even launched the distribution of the Grappa di Brunello that is to be combined with a Tuscan cigar on the Italian market.


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