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Tea, the eyelids of Buddha
by Davide Morena
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Japanese green tea ceremony
Serving tea in Japan is a practice as ancient as tea itself. It was in the middle of the 16th century that Buddhist monks perfected the behaviours linked to this social practice and made it one of the most structured and complex.
Tea ceremony in Japan is both a social event and an aesthetic experience, involving religious elements. It can be a more or less formal event: its informal version is called chakai and lasts about half an hour; when it gets more formal (chaji) it could even last a whole afternoon and see many different stages. Both the chakai and the chaji have the same purpose which is to serve food and drink to guests. The difference lies in the quantity of food and drink, and the increased amount of ritualized movement that is necessary when you are serving more and doing it in your finest fashion: obviously, a chakai can foresee the presence of a higher number of guests, while a chaji could reveal unbearable for a host to manage with more than 4-5 guests.
Besides the social aspect, tea ceremony is an aesthetic experience which confines with art itself. Body movement is completely choreographed, even down to finger positions. Tea utensils can be of such a high quality that you will find them in art museums throughout the world. This is true also of architecture, gardening and flower arrangement involved in a fine tea ceremony. Tea ceremony is the highest example of a certain way Japanese consider the practice of eating: it has to be not only a pleasure for the mouth but, before it, a pleasant experience for the eyes. This approach is more radical than westerners imagine: in the Japanese culture, eating is a practice that involves the sense of the sight as well as the taste. So, developing the art of preparing tea (exactly as for French cooks while preparing a fine meal) means developing the sense of beauty too: the process is the most important aspect of the practice (so it is right to call it a "ceremony"), more than the final product itself.
Japanese tea ceremony is too difficult even to stay in a whole book. In the following chapter we will only give some tips to prepare a Japanese tea and recall the terms and the utensils needed, instead of teaching how to start a tea ceremony.
Glossary:
Furo: a brazier
Kama: an iron pot
Natsume: a small container. The word originally means jujube, because its shape reminds of a jujube fruit.
Chashaku: a teaspoon made of bamboo, used for putting powdered green tea into a teacup.
Chawan: teacup
Chasen: a whisk used to beat tea and hot water.
Mizusashi: a kind of container or bowl
Kensui: another kind of container or bowl
Hishaku: a pipe-shaped ladle
Chakin: a dish towel made of linen
Futaoki: lid rest
Set furo in the tearoom. Place the kama on the furo and boil water. Open the lid of the kama a little. Pour the water into the mizusashi. Put some powdered green tea into the natsume. Put the chakin into the teacup and place the chasen on the chakin. Place the chashaku on the teacup. Put the futaoki into the kensui and place the hishaku on the kensui.
This is only the preparation for the ceremony. Now it is time to serve some sweets to the guests before the host begins the procedure for making tea.
Put the powdered green tea into the natsume. Wash the chawan with water and discard it in the kensui, then wipe the chawan with the chakin. Use the chashaku to put some tea powder into the chawan. Take some hot water from the mizusashi with the hishaku and draw it into the chawan. Beat tea and hot water with chasen.
It sounds almost impossible: well, try to imagine that each of the steps comes together with many complicated and precise movements. Too hard to try? Maybe you'd prefer to learn more about a much simpler but not less important ceremony linked to tea: afternoon tea.
Afternoon tea
British tradition of afternoon tea is a custom as much rooted in Britons as green tea ceremony in Japanese. Even if this habit can be hardly credited to only a person, it is commonly due to a woman: Anna, 7th Duchess of Bedford. In the early 1840s, the Duchess often became hungry before dinner time (8.30-9.00 pm). So she used to have a small meal in the mid-afternoon. She began inviting guests to join her for a cup of tea and some sweets and savouries in the afternoon, in order to fill the long gap between breakfast and late dinners. The ritual caught on in England and North America and soon became an afternoon tradition that remains today. Modern afternoon tea at trendy tea salons and cafés feature a wide variety of quality teas and fine finger foods.
In 1842, a well known actress named Fanny Kemble first heard of afternoon tea. In a couple o years she set the whole complex of rules and etiquette surrounding the social customs of women visiting each other for tea.
Just one tip before leaving such a wide argument as tea - with the promise to go back on it in the future. It concerns a very way of drinking tea very popular today: iced. As many of the most enduring inventions, iced is due to a necessity turned into virtue. An Englishman named Richard Blechynden was unsuccessfully promoting tea at the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis, Missouri. You see, the sweltering southern heat did little to attract patrons to hot tea, so Mr. Blechynden added ice cubes and the crowds loved the new brew. Ever since this fortuitous discovery, ced tea has continued to grow in popularity.
Davide Morena
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